Home Gardening Growing and Caring for a Cherry Laurel Hedge: A Comprehensive Guide for Beginners

Growing and Caring for a Cherry Laurel Hedge: A Comprehensive Guide for Beginners

by Gregory
4 minutes read

Growing and Caring for a Cherry Laurel Hedge: A Comprehensive Guide

Cherry laurel (Prunus laurocerasus) is a versatile and attractive evergreen shrub that’s well-suited for creating privacy hedges. It’s a relatively fast-growing plant that can reach a height of 5m or more, but it can be kept much smaller with regular pruning.

Choosing the Right Location

Cherry laurel can grow in full sun or partial shade, but it tends to produce more flowers and fruit in sunnier spots. It prefers well-drained soil, but it can tolerate a wide range of soil types, from clay to sandy loam. Avoid planting cherry laurel near woodlands or other natural areas, as it can become invasive.

Planting Your Cherry Laurel Hedge

Dig a hole that is slightly larger than the rootball and place the plant in the hole, making sure the top of the rootball is level with the surrounding soil. Backfill the hole with soil, firming it gently around the plant’s roots to remove any air pockets. Water the plant thoroughly after planting to help it establish.

The spacing of plants will depend on the desired density of your hedge. For a single-row hedge, space the plants about 60-90cm apart. If you’re planting a double-row hedge, space the rows about 45-60cm apart, with the plants staggered for optimal coverage.

Caring for Your Cherry Laurel Hedge

Once established, cherry laurel is a relatively low-maintenance plant. Water regularly through dry spells, particularly in summer. Avoid overwatering, as cherry laurel does not tolerate waterlogged soil.

Apply a layer of organic mulch, such as bark chips or leaf mold, annually around the base of the plant to help retain moisture, suppress weeds, and provide nutrients.

Pruning Your Cherry Laurel Hedge

Pruning is an important part of cherry laurel hedge maintenance, as it helps to promote bushier growth, maintain a desired shape, and prevent the hedge from becoming too large. The best time to prune cherry laurel is in late spring or early summer, after the plant has finished flowering.

Start by removing any dead, diseased, or damaged branches. Then, trim back the tips of the branches to the desired height, using sharp, clean pruning shears. If your hedge is in a particularly noticeable part of the garden, you may want to use secateurs to avoid cutting the broad leaves in half.

Pests and Diseases

Cherry laurel is generally resistant to pests and diseases, but it can still be susceptible to certain issues, such as leaf spot, powdery mildew, and laurel shot hole. To prevent these issues, avoid overhead watering and provide good air circulation around the plants. If pests or diseases do occur, remove and destroy infected leaves or branches.

Frequently Asked Questions

What can I plant in front of a cherry laurel hedge?

If you have a good amount of space, there’s plenty you can plant in front of your cherry laurel hedge. A border planted with a mix of shrubby, evergreen, and herbaceous perennials will create a long season of interest, while silver-leaved and white-flowered plants will contrast well with the fresh green of the laurel.

Help! The leaves of my cherry laurel are turning yellow and dropping.

Cherry laurel leaves can turn yellow and drop when sitting for too long in wet soil. This can happen when the soil is compacted and not aerated sufficiently. To check the soil, dig down near where you planted the cherry laurels and see how wet the soil is. If conditions are suitable, you may be able to improve drainage by digging a trench or series of holes and part-filling them with gravel.

Can I move my laurel hedge?

Smallish laurels that have not been growing in the same spot for more than four years can usually be moved successfully. Prepare the planting hole before you start digging, and water the hedge thoroughly for several days beforehand, so its roots are less likely to ‘tear’ from the ground. Then dig around the rootball of each plant, taking care not to damage the roots as much as possible. If you’re moving it straight to a new location in the ground, water thoroughly and then keep watering every two days for several weeks, or until you see signs of new growth.

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